I like to ask "what is/was your favorite and least favorite part of [Company's] [Department's] culture, that way there's a rough range that's specific to the department rather than ambiguous cultural perks.
You would have to take the answer in context, ie does it align with their reason for leaving. Shit talking would be a red flag but everyone's got unique cultural preferences. Someone's favorite part might be someone's least favorite part from that same company.
I never ask that question about the candidate's current or most recent previous employer. Any answers will be guarded or clouded.
Instead I ask what coworkers they still remember from their earlier jobs, and why. This has the double benefit of putting enough emotional distance between now the time they will be talking about, and it highlights the traits the candidate considers important in others. It doesn't even matter if they point out the negative memories over positive ones.
There is one intensely high-signal question but I can only ask that with other Finns. Namely: "What university courses did you cheat on?"